How to Say Lolita Fashion in Chinese

Fashion subculture originating in Nihon

A Japanese adult female wearing a dress based on lolita manner.

A shop in Tokyo selling Lolita way clothing.

Lolita fashion ( ロリータ・ファッション , rorīta fasshon ) is a subculture from Japan that is highly influenced by Victorian article of clothing and styles from the Rococo menses.[1] [ii] [3] [4] [five] [6] A very distinctive holding of Lolita fashion is the aesthetic of cuteness.[7] [8] This habiliment subculture can be categorized into three main substyles: 'gothic', 'classic', and 'sweetness'.[three] [9] Many other substyles such as 'sailor', 'land', 'hime' (princess), 'ero' (erotic), 'guro' (grotesque), 'qi' and 'wa' (based on traditional Chinese and Japanese dress), 'punk', 'shiro' (white), 'kuro' (blackness), and 'steampunk' lolita also be. This fashion evolved into a widely followed subculture in Japan and other countries in the 1990s and 2000s[10] [xi] [12] [13] [14] and may take waned in Nihon as of the 2010s equally the way became more mainstream.[15] [16] [17]

Description [edit]

The main characteristic of Lolita fashion is the volume of the skirt, created past wearing a petticoat or crinoline.[18] [19] [20] The skirt can exist either bell-shaped or A-line shaped.[xx] Components of the lolita wardrobe consist mainly of a blouse (long or short sleeves) with a skirt or a dress, which unremarkably comes to the knees.[21] Lolitas often wear wigs in combination with other headwear such equally hair bows or a bonnet (similar to a Poke bonnet). Lolitas can also wear Victorian style drawers under their petticoats. For further result some Lolitas apply knee socks, talocrural joint socks or tights together with either high heels or flat shoes with a bow are worn. Other typical Lolita garments are a jumperskirt (JSK) and jumpsuit (OP).[22]

History [edit]

Although the origin of the fashion is unclear, at the stop of the 1970s a new motility known every bit Otome-kei was founded, which slightly influenced Lolita fashion since Otome means maiden and maiden style looks like a bottom elaborated Lolita manner.[xviii] Before Otome-kei emerged, in that location was already a rise of the cuteness civilization in the earlier seventies; during which there was a high emphasis on cute and childish handwriting in Japanese schools.[23] [24] [25] As a consequence of that the company Sanrio began experimenting with cute designs.[26] The cuteness style, known as kawaii style, became popular in the 1980s.[27] [28] After Otome-kei, Exercise-It-Yourself behavior became popular, which led to the emergence of a new manner called 'doll-kei', the predecessor of Lolita way.[29] [21]

In the years of 1977–1998, a large role of the Harajuku shopping district airtight for car traffic on Sundays. The result was an increase in interaction between pedestrians in Harajuku.[30] When brands like Pink House [ja] (1973),[10] [31] Milk (1970),[10] and Angelic Pretty (1979)[32] began to sell beautiful clothing, that resulted in a new mode, which would later be known as 'Lolita'.[33] The term lolita first appeared in the fashion magazine Ryukou Tsushin in the September 1987 issue.[10] Shortly afterward that Baby, The Stars Smooth Vivid (1988),[34] Metamorphose temps de fille (1993),[35] and other brands emerged.[10] In the 1990s, lolita became more accepted, with visual kei bands like Malice Mizer and others rising in popularity. These ring members wore elaborate clothes that fans began to adopt.[34] During this time Nihon went through an economic low,[36] leading to an increment in alternative youth and fashion cultures such every bit gyaru, otaku, visual kei, and lolita,[34] equally well as visualkei inspired article of clothing such as Mori, Fairy Kei and Decora[37] The lolita style spread quickly from the Kansai region and finally reached Tokyo,[ citation needed ] partly due to the economic difficulties there was a large growth in the cuteness and youth cultures that originated in the seventies.[34]

In the tardily nineties, the Jingu Bashi (also called the Harajuku Bridge) became known equally coming together place for youth who wore lolita and other alternative mode,[ten] [38] [39] [40] and lolita became more popular causing a spurt of lolita Style selling warehouses.[41] Important magazines that contributed to the spread of the fashion mode were the Gothic & Lolita Bible (2001), a spin-off of the pop Japanese style magazine KERA [ja] (1998), and FRUiTS (1997).[42] [43] Information technology was around this time when interest and awareness of Lolita Fashion began inbound countries outside of Nihon, with The Gothic & Lolita Bible being translated into English, distributed outside of Nippon through the publisher Tokyopop,[44] [45] and FRUits publishing an English film book of the Japanese Street Fashion in 2001. As the style became further popularized through the Net, more shops opened abroad, such as Babe, The Stars Shine Bright in Paris (2007)[14] and in New York (2014).[46]

Over time, the youth that gathered in Harajuku or at Harajuku Span disappeared. I possible explanation is that the introduction of fast fashion from retailers H&M and Forever 21 has caused a reduction in the consumption of street fashion.[47] [16] FRUiTS ceased publication while Gothic & Lolita Bible was put on hiatus in 2017.[47] [48]

Sources of inspiration [edit]

Western civilisation has influenced Lolita manner. The volume Alice in Wonderland (1865),[49] [50] written by Lewis Carroll,[51] [52] has inspired many dissimilar brands and magazines,[34] such as Alice Deco.[51] The reason that the character Alice was an inspiration source for the Lolita, was because she was an ideal icon for the Shōjo (shoujo)-prototype,[34] [53] significant an image of eternal innocence and beauty.[54] The first consummate translation of the book was published past Maruyama Eikon in 1910, translated under the championship Ai-chan No Yume Monogatari (Fantastic stories of Ai).[55] Some other figure from the Rococo that served every bit a source of inspiration was Marie Antoinette;[56] a manga The Rose of Versailles (Lady Oscar) based on her court, was created in 1979.

Popularization [edit]

Musician Mana, pictured at a 2019 fashion show for his brand Moi-même-Moitié, is credited with helping to popularize Gothic Lolita.

People who have popularized the Lolita fashion were Yukari Tamura, Mana and Novala Takemoto. Novala wrote the light novel Kamikaze Girls (2002)[11] [57] well-nigh the human relationship between Momoko, a lolita daughter and Ichigo, a Yanki. The volume was adjusted into a flick[eleven] [58] [59] [60] [61] and a manga in 2004. Novala himself claims that "There are no leaders within the lolita world".[62] [63] Mana is a musician and is known for popularizing the Gothic Lolita way.[5] He played in the stone band Malice Mizer (1992–2001) and founded the heavy metallic band Moi Dix Mois (2002–nowadays). Both bands are a office of the visual kei movement, whose members are known for eccentric expressions and elaborate costumes. He founded his own fashion label, known as Moi-même-Moitié in 1999, which specializes in Gothic Lolita.[64] [65] [66] [67] They are both very interested in the Roccoco menses.[64]

The government of Japan has also tried to popularize Lolita mode. The Government minister of Foreign Affairs in February 2009,[68] assigned models to spread Japanese popular civilization.[69] [70] [71] [24] These people were given the championship of Kawaa Taishi (ambassadors of cuteness).[seventy] [34] The kickoff 3 ambassadors of cuteness were model Misako Aoki, who represents the Lolita style of frills-and-lace, Yu Kimura who represents the Harajuku mode, and Shizuka Fujioka who represents the school-uniform-styled fashion.[70] [72] Some other mode that Japan tries to popularize Japanese street fashion and Lolita is past organizing the international Harajuku walk in Japan, this should caused that other foreign countries would organize a similar walk.[73]

Possible reasons for the popularity of Lolita fashion outside of Japan are a big growth in the interest of Japanese culture and use of the internet as a place to share information,[38] [71] [74] [75] leading to an increase in worldwide shopping, and the opportunity of enthusiastic foreign Lolitas to buy fashion.[76] The origin of the Japanese influences tin can be found in the late nineties, in which cultural goods such as Hello Kitty, Pokémon,[77] and translated mangas appeared in the west.[78] Anime was already being imported to the west in the early nineties,[79] and scholars also mention that anime and manga caused the popularity of Japanese culture to rise.[37] [lxxx] This is supported by the idea that cultural streams have been going from Japan to the west, and from the westward to Japan.[81]

Motives [edit]

Lolita is seen as a reaction against stifling Japanese society, in which young people are pressured to strictly adhere to gender roles and the expectations and responsibilities that are part of these roles.[82] [83] [84] [85] [86] Wearing style inspired by babyhood clothing is a reaction against this.[87] [83] [88] [89] This can exist explained from two perspectives. Firstly, that information technology is a style to escape adulthood[18] [64] [90] [91] [92] [93] and to go back to the eternal beauty of babyhood.[94] [95] Secondly, that information technology is an escape to a fantasy earth, in which an ideal identity can be created that would non be adequate in daily life.[5] [96] [97]

Some Lolitas say they enjoy the dress of the subculture simply considering it is fun and not as a protest against traditional Japanese club.[10] Other motives could be that wearing the fashion style increases their cocky-confidence[98] [99] [100] [101] or to express an alternative identity.[10] [76] [32] [97] [102] [103]

[edit]

Much of the very early lolitas in the 1990s hand-made most of their habiliment, and were inspired by the Dolly Kei movement of the previous decade.[31] Considering of the diffusion of style magazines people were able to use lolita patterns to make their own article of clothing.[ citation needed ] Another way to own lolita was to buy information technology 2d-paw.[104] The do-it-yourself behaviour can be seen more than ofttimes by people who cannot beget the expensive brands.[105]

Over again retail stores began selling lolita fashion, it became less common for lolitas to make their own habiliment.[ citation needed ] Partly due to the ascension of e-commerce and globalization, lolita clothing became more than widely accessible with the help of the Internet. The marketplace was rapidly divided into multiple components: one which purchases mainly from Japanese or Chinese net marketplaces, the other making apply of shopping services to purchase Japanese brands,[76] with some communities making larger orders equally a group.[106] Not every online store delivers quality lolita (inspired) products, a notorious instance is Milanoo (2014).[107] Some web shops sell brand replicas, which is frowned upon by many in this community.[108] A Chinese replica manufacturer that is famous for his replica design is Oo Jia.[108] 2d-paw shopping is also an alternative to ownership new pieces as items can exist bought at a lower price (admitting with varying item condition) and is the sole method of obtaining pieces that are no longer produced past their corresponding brand.

[edit]

Many lolitas consider existence photographed without permission to be rude and disrespectful,[109] [110] [111] however some rules differ or overlap in different parts of this community.[112] Lolitas oftentimes host meetings in public spaces such as parks, restaurants, cafes, shopping malls, public events, and festivals.[113] Some meetings take identify at members' homes, and often have custom house rules (east.m. each fellow member must bring their own cupcake to the meeting).[114] Lolita meetings therefore are a social aspect of the lolita manner customs, serving as an opportunity for members to meet one some other.[ citation needed ] Many lolitas also used to use Livejournal to communicate, just many have switched to Facebook groups in the interim.[115]

Terminology [edit]

Lolita style did not emerge until after the publication of the novel Lolita (1955),[76] [116] which was written by Vladimir Nabokov, the commencement translation of the novel in Japanese appearing in 1959.[54] The novel is about a middle-aged human being, Humbert Humbert, who grooms and abuses a twelve-twelvemonth-former girl nicknamed Lolita.[117] [118] [119] Considering the book focused on the controversial subject of pedophilia and underage sexuality, "Lolita" shortly developed a negative connotation referring to a girl inappropriately sexualized at a very young historic period[120] and associated with unacceptable sexual obsession.[121] In Nippon, yet, soapbox around the novel instead built on the country'south romanticized girls' culture (shōjo bunka), and instead came to exist a positive synonym for the "sweet and adorable" adolescent girl, without a perverse or sexual connotation.[122]

Lolita was made into a movie in 1962, which was sexualized and did non show the disinterest that Lolita had in sexuality.[123] [124] A remake was fabricated in 1997. The 17-year-sometime Amy Fisher, who attempted to murder the wife of her 35-year-old lover and whose criminal offence was made into a film chosen The Amy Fisher Story (1993), was often chosen the Long Island Lolita. These films reinforced the sexual association.[125] Other racy connotations were created by Lolita Nylon advertisements (1964)[126] and other media that used Lolita in sexual contexts.[127] Another cistron is that Western culture considers wearing cute clothing when adult to be childish, associating lolita with paedophile fantasies. In contrast, it is more than adequate for cuteness to be part of fashion in Nippon.[127]

Within Japanese culture the proper name refers to cuteness and elegance rather than to sexual attractiveness.[128] [129] Many lolitas in Japan are not aware that lolita is associated with Nabokov's book and they are disgusted past it when they discover such relation.[130] The Japanese sense of "Lolita" also appears in lolicon (from "Lolita complex"),[131] [132] a term associated with Russell Trainer's novel The Lolita Circuitous (1966, translated 1969) and associated with otaku (anime and manga fan) culture. The concept and genre of media reflects a blend between the artful of kawaii and sexual themes in fiction.[122]

Another common confusion is between the Lolita fashion style and cosplay.[133] Although both spread from Nihon, they are different and should be perceived as independent from each other;[134] one is a way fashion while the other is role-play, with habiliment and accessory being used to play a character. This does non exclude that there may be some overlap between members of both groups.[135] This tin can be seen at anime conventions such as the convention in Götenborg in which cosplay and Japanese fashion is mixed.[136] For some Lolitas, it is insulting if people label their outfit every bit a costume.[10] [137]

Gallery [edit]

See also [edit]

  • Kamikaze Girls
  • Kogal
  • Novala Takemoto

References [edit]

Citations [edit]

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General references [edit]

  • Drupe, B. (2017). Ethnographic Comparing of a Niche Fashion Grouping, Lolita (Thesis). Florida Atlantic University.
  • Christopherson, Grand. (2014). The Power of Beautiful: Redefining Kawaii Culture As a Feminist Move (Thesis). Carthage College. Archived from the original on xi Baronial 2017. Retrieved 10 February 2018.
  • Coombes, 1000. (2016). Consuming Hello Kitty: Saccharide Cuteness in Japanese Guild (Thesis). Wellesley College.
  • Gatlin, Chancy J. (2014). The Way of Frill: The Art of Impression Direction in the Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Customs (Thesis). Georgia State Academy.
  • Haijima, A. (2013). Japanese Popular Culture in Republic of latvia: Lolita and Mori Fashion (Thesis). Academy of Republic of latvia.
  • Hardy Bernal, Kathryn A. (2007). Kamikaze Girls and Loli-Goths. Fashion in Fiction Conference, Academy of Technology, Sydney, Australia. Archived from the original on xi August 2017. Retrieved eleven February 2018.
  • Hardy Bernal, Kathryn Adele (2011). The Lolita Complex: A Japanese mode subculture and its paradoxes (PDF) (MPhil Thesis). Auckland Academy of Technology. hdl:10292/2448.
  • Hinton, Perry R. (2013). "Returning in a Different Mode: Culture, Communication, and Changing Representations of Lolita in Japan and the Due west". International Journal of Communication. seven: 1582–1602.
  • Mikami, K. (2011). Cultural Globalization in People'due south Life Experiences: Japanese Popular Cultural Styles in Sweden (Thesis). Stockholm Academy.
  • Monden, Masafumi (2008). "Transcultural Flow of Demure Aesthetics: Examining Cultural Globalisation through Gothic & Lolita Fashion, The Japan Foundation Sydney". New Voices. 2: 21–40. doi:ten.21159/nv.02.02.
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Further reading and documentaries [edit]

  • Lolitas Of Amsterdam | Style Out In that location | Refinery29 (documentary) at YouTube
  • Lolita Fashion documentaries (documentaires) playlist at YouTube
  • Listing of Lolita brands at Tumblr (archived version at annal, xiv August 2017 version)
  • Rebels in Frills: a Literature Review on Lolita Subculture at Academia (thesis) from South Carolina Honors College
  • Shoichi Aoki Interview (2003) founder of the street fashion magazine FRUiTS at ABC Australia (archived version at archive, 14 August 2017 version)
  • The Tea Party Club'southward 5th Anniversary starring Juliette et Justine: Q&A (2012) at Jame World (archived version at archive, 14 August 2017 version)
  • Innocent World Tea Party in Vienna: Q&A (2013) at Jame World (archived version at archive, 14 August 2017 version)
  • The Tea Party Club Presents: Revelry Q&A (2014) at Jame World (archived version at archive, 14 August 2017 version)

External links [edit]

  • Nihon Lolita Clan
  • Lolita library of brands

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